Kakahiaka Maika'i from Honolulu!

It's a rainy day in paradise! A little cold front moved in on Kaua'i county yesterday and crept on over to O'ahu in the night. Wet streets and some raindrops greeting us kakahiaka nui (early morning).

Here are some hibiscus for you. Hibisci? Hibiscuses?

Reef Rash

The SSW swell has been filling in for the past few days and it was glassy and shoulder high this morning. A bit of slack between sets, but worth the wait. When the cleanup waves came through I got some big drops and long walls to carve.

Stayed out for an hour and would have gone longer, but both calves cramped on the last wave I caught. Which is why I made it be the last wave.

Tide was super low. I got some reef rash. Ugh.

Jewish Jokes, Waves, Internet, and Aloha!

Up early and paddled out from the Wall over to Queen's and surfed for an hour-and-a-half. There was a large happy brown fella out there, too. He was telling Jewish jokes. After a while he paddled over and asked me where I was from. And then I figured out he is Moses Paskowitz.

If you haven't seen the documentary Surfwise, I highly recommend it. Doc Paskowitz is a surfer who goes all the way back to the days of the Duke. He first came to Hawaii in 1939.

It's great to have a guy like Moses out in the lineup. He's a big happy kid, insisting that everyone out there catch waves and have fun.

And I got my internet set up.

I think I'll go surf again.

Aloha from Waikiki!

Hawaiian Word o' the Day

Kapakahi

Yeah, you got it. Crooked. Messed up.

Could be worse; could be snowing.

Improving surf but still small. Am I complaining? Heck no! I could be in Moxie's shoes, riding the bus home from school 35 miles and getting picked up by her dad in the John Deere because the pickup can't make it down to the road.

Five days of snow and the road is covered in six-foot drifts.

Kapakahi

Anybody wanna guess what kapakahi means in Hawaiian?



Wall Bodyboard Session

I surfed at the wall last night for over an hour. When I first went out, there were two women sharing waves. One left pretty quick. The other stuck around and asked me if I was visiting. She seemed like over 60, but was doing okay, sliding into some waves.

She left eventually and I got almost an hour of the place all to myself. Waves weren't spectacular, but it was most fun bodyboard session I've had since Maui three years ago.

It was a fun, cleansing session. I needed the cleansing.

Somebody must have needed new slippahs more than I needed them to get back home. $1.99 slippahs gone!

I seem to be a high-value target this week. My bike got stolen on Saturday. It brought me as much joy as a bike can bring you in 9 hours. I guess, as much heartache, too.

Fortunately, I'm covered since I bought it on the credit card. I should get it replaced or get reimbursed.

The waves weren't like either of these. :)