VOGGY Breakdown

My eyes started itching about four days ago, just about the time the trades shut down. Kinda puffy, and teary, they itched worse in the ocean and then Tuesday, sitting in the office, I started feeling dizzy and then nauseous. Yesterday it was worse and I went home. Same today.

The VOG got me.

Surf got a little bump Tuesday afternoon through Wednesday night. I got a bunch of fun ones on the long board at Publics and Queens. Then went out last night and had fun at Walls.

Oh, yes. I still surf when I'm sick. It's healing, my friends.

So, I've been working out this story about my kids and our new life and I'm going to take it off line for the time being and work on it in a longer form. Feel free to comment or send me your feedback. It'll be healing work and good for us all to do it.

For now, back to the fun stuff.

I've been slack about writing about surfing. I've thought about it a bit the past couple of weeks and come to the conclusion that when I got here in April, I was so happy to be back in warm tropical waves, that each wave I caught, each turn I carved, every drop-in, bottom turn, kick-out offered me a special peak moment that experienced in it's entirety, fully, as a student.

Then a couple of big South swells came through and I got the rush that always has drawn me to this surfing thing more than any other reason.

The big wave experience.

Speed.

Adrenaline.

A full-body immersion in mother nature and powers greater than myself.

I knew the first time I slid down the face of an overhead wave that this was something I wanted to do again and again and for the rest of my life. When I caught a 20+ footer in Hanalei and got held down for three waves before making out to the channel, I was less discouraged than I was challenged and touched spiritually. This was the first time in my life that something had grabbed hold of me and held me down and left me with no control.

As I tumbled it came clear to me that I couldn't even move my had to my face if I tried. The ocean had me in a complete embrace of rolling warm salty water. I'd returned to the womb and had no voice in the world I was immersed within. Eventually, I surrendered the struggle and my ego quieted. I accepted my fate and waited to see the outcome.

When I was able to figure out up I stroked to the surface, marked the channel and swam clear of the impact zone.

I needed that.