magical healing powers from the sea

The recent South swell arrived last Thursday and is just now fading a bit. The surf is still good, and town has been fun, but it has worn me out! I couldn't resist and went every day until yesterday. My first couple months here were a nice slow break-in for this more serious swell and the overhead waves it brought.

Two weeks ago I got in on some great Makapu'u and Sandy's, taking a bodyboard over there three days in a row. I caught some great big walls to carve up on the sponge and got in some more strenuous paddling than I've had to do on my evening sessions at Walls and Queens.

Most of this swell was spent at Publics and Castles. Publics was fun when the second reef started to break and then we had a few days where some big stuff woke up Castles. My best day out there involved only about eight people, three of us took our pick of the waves we wanted, rode 300-400 feet, and paddled back out to do it again.

On Tuesday I surfed Castles and then paddled all the way across outer Waikiki bay to Pops. I rode a couple of small inside waves there and paddled back in at Canoes. I'm finally getting fit enough to have some fun out there. It feels good.

After six straight days of surf I was too tired last night and called it early.

Feels good to be out in the water. Magical ocean healing powers can cleanse just about anything the world subjects you to.

Aloha!

'Iolani Palace

Once a month locals get into 'Iolani Palace for free. I decided to ride the bus over and take the tour despite still struggling with the horrible head cold.

It's a worthwhile experience to tour the palace; done in a style that's been labeled American Florentine. Built by King Kalakaua in the late eighteenth century, the building is loaded with the history of that era of transition from an independent, democratically-elected kingdom, to a US territory. Although, sadly, much of the original furnishings were disbursed to the four winds when the robber barrons of the era staged their coup, overthrew the monarchy, and took possession of the palace to establish themselves as the new regime.

Honolulu Headcold

Felt a little under the weather most of yesterday at work. I left around 2:30 and started walking home. The closer I got to home, the worse I felt.

By the time I got home I had a full-blown head cold. Ugh.

Stayed in; no surf and rested. I still ate fine, but my head felt like it might explode.

I slept poorly and around 2:30 the pain in my face from overpacked sinuses was so bad I had to go get something to help.

So, had to navigate 2:30a Kuhio St, which is loaded with hookers and drunks at that point of the night.

I managed to survive the gauntlet; got a box of sudafed; and by 3:30 was back in bed and starting to feel some relief.

Took dose 2 this morning. My nose is running like derby-day.

I surfed the wall for about a half-hour. Very low tide and pretty small kine waves. The last one I caught, I was able to connect all the way to the inside and stand up at the beach. Always a good day when you finish without having to paddle back in. :)

Lunchtime Stroll - Diamond Head Way

 Took another lunchtime walk. This time I went Diamond Head way and checked out the Capitol, Iolani Palace, and some other sites.



St Andrew's



Washington Place

Eternal Flame, September 11 Memorial



Father D and the Capitol building



Central mural on State Capitol rotunda

Inside our funky state capitol building



Queen Lili. She's always hanging around here; keeping an eye on those politicians




http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ua_Mau_ke_Ea_o_ka_'%C4%80ina_i_ka_Pono





Shady spot for keiki to watch the birds




Queen's Guards bunkhouse



Looking away from the Queen's Guards fort

Me taking a picture of people taking a picture

Nani

Recurring role on Hawai'i Five-0

Walking back to HT



HECO



Ali'iolani Hale

Hawaiian Telcom

Downtown Honolulu Stroll

Took a stroll at lunchtime today.

Fort Street Mall, near Hotel St.

Crossing King St.

Plumeria threatening to fall on my head

Lovely architecture

Aloha Tower in distance

Nice lobby waterfall creation

Chinatown entrance

Wall Joy, Lei Day, Crazy Pineapple Kissers, and a Hula for You

Monday and Tuesday were both fun nights at the Wall. Last night had a happy, laughing crowd, including a large group of islanders with sponges, paipos, a longboard, and a shortboard. Lots of trading around on vehicles between their crew and lots of good-natured teasing, "Oh, you too fat to catch that wave!"

"Uncle, where you learn to get off 'em lie dat? That move is pretty smoove! The one where you look like you fallin' in da watah!"

I rode a half-dozen or so, getting some big carves, spinning at the ends of rides, and getting a good workout on the paddle back out. The longer the ride in, the more work to get out.

Also, this wave runs straight into a wall and physics tells us for every action there's an equal and opposite reaction (Yankee homer, Boston tears, for example). So, lots of great colliding waves as one is headed in and the rebound is headed back out. Most of the energy is spent straight up into the air. If you time it right, you can either jump over the bump of the outgoing wave and get good air horizontally, or you can smack up the lip and get some good vertical.

I managed a couple of the horizontal types, flying 6-8 feet across the ocean surface before landing again.

Today's Lei Day. You mainlanders got your May Day, and we have to do something with all the dang flowers around here, they dropping on the ground everywhere, I telling you!

So we make leis and give 'em to each other.

My company added the crazy aloha shirt contest to the day and we had some fun.

This guy was the winner and he showed his appreciation by kissing his pineapple trophy.

Anytime somebody starts playing some local style music, if anyone has every danced to the song, they get up and dance for the crowd. It's a great Hawaiian tradition and one of my favorite things about living here. Everyone always shows their appreciation for a dancer!