"Uncle, where you learn to get off 'em lie dat? That move is pretty smoove! The one where you look like you fallin' in da watah!"
I rode a half-dozen or so, getting some big carves, spinning at the ends of rides, and getting a good workout on the paddle back out. The longer the ride in, the more work to get out.
Also, this wave runs straight into a wall and physics tells us for every action there's an equal and opposite reaction (Yankee homer, Boston tears, for example). So, lots of great colliding waves as one is headed in and the rebound is headed back out. Most of the energy is spent straight up into the air. If you time it right, you can either jump over the bump of the outgoing wave and get good air horizontally, or you can smack up the lip and get some good vertical.
I managed a couple of the horizontal types, flying 6-8 feet across the ocean surface before landing again.
Today's Lei Day. You mainlanders got your May Day, and we have to do something with all the dang flowers around here, they dropping on the ground everywhere, I telling you!
So we make leis and give 'em to each other.
My company added the crazy aloha shirt contest to the day and we had some fun.
This guy was the winner and he showed his appreciation by kissing his pineapple trophy.
Anytime somebody starts playing some local style music, if anyone has every danced to the song, they get up and dance for the crowd. It's a great Hawaiian tradition and one of my favorite things about living here. Everyone always shows their appreciation for a dancer!
No comments:
Post a Comment
Thanks for commenting, unless you're a 'bot, then I hope you rust, or whatever the digital equivalent of oxidation of metal may happen to be.
If you're a hacker, could you work on taking down a bank that I have loans at? That would really help.