The recent South swell arrived last Thursday and is just now fading a bit. The surf is still good, and town has been fun, but it has worn me out! I couldn't resist and went every day until yesterday. My first couple months here were a nice slow break-in for this more serious swell and the overhead waves it brought.
Two weeks ago I got in on some great Makapu'u and Sandy's, taking a bodyboard over there three days in a row. I caught some great big walls to carve up on the sponge and got in some more strenuous paddling than I've had to do on my evening sessions at Walls and Queens.
Most of this swell was spent at Publics and Castles. Publics was fun when the second reef started to break and then we had a few days where some big stuff woke up Castles. My best day out there involved only about eight people, three of us took our pick of the waves we wanted, rode 300-400 feet, and paddled back out to do it again.
On Tuesday I surfed Castles and then paddled all the way across outer Waikiki bay to Pops. I rode a couple of small inside waves there and paddled back in at Canoes. I'm finally getting fit enough to have some fun out there. It feels good.
After six straight days of surf I was too tired last night and called it early.
Feels good to be out in the water. Magical ocean healing powers can cleanse just about anything the world subjects you to.
Aloha!
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