Rode da bus home from work last night and got in the water about 5. The sun was at a pretty low angle and right in my face most of the time. I bodyboarded at da Wall, with about two-dozen of my closest friends. A couple of very white bald guys with boards and fins kicked over and asked me, "Do you know how to do this?" I said, "Nope. Surfing sucks. Don't try it."
Okay, then I smiled.
One guy persisted in following me and trying to catch waves. He asked a couple more questions and I told him it just takes time.
I don't mind sharing the stoke with people at little spots that get crowded anyway. I don't believe in localism at all. If you are going to get in the water, however, I hope you ask advice from the folks renting or selling equipment to you. Paddling out at da Wall is one thing, but if you start getting into some local breaks and you don't know what you're doing, well, chipped tooth is something we all end up with. Worst case is breaking a neck.
Sets were rolling in pretty mushy; tide was maxed out, I'm certain. I got some nice long walls and was able to spin a few and carve two or three turns on about ten waves.
Swam a lot and got a good workout.
Back home and early to bed because I'm a good boy. Except when I'm not and I drink tourist mai tais. ;)
Looking forward to some big paddles on the weekend. Gonna get out at Threes and keep on the fitness drill.
Aloha!
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