Sunday, April 21, 2013

Reef Rash

The SSW swell has been filling in for the past few days and it was glassy and shoulder high this morning. A bit of slack between sets, but worth the wait. When the cleanup waves came through I got some big drops and long walls to carve.

Stayed out for an hour and would have gone longer, but both calves cramped on the last wave I caught. Which is why I made it be the last wave.

Tide was super low. I got some reef rash. Ugh.

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