Up early and paddled out from the Wall over to Queen's and surfed for an hour-and-a-half. There was a large happy brown fella out there, too. He was telling Jewish jokes. After a while he paddled over and asked me where I was from. And then I figured out he is Moses Paskowitz.
If you haven't seen the documentary Surfwise, I highly recommend it. Doc Paskowitz is a surfer who goes all the way back to the days of the Duke. He first came to Hawaii in 1939.
It's great to have a guy like Moses out in the lineup. He's a big happy kid, insisting that everyone out there catch waves and have fun.
And I got my internet set up.
I think I'll go surf again.
Aloha from Waikiki!
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