Wednesday, April 24, 2013

My Xiphoid Process is Protruding

... but that doesn't mean I'm NOT happy to see you.

Poor to Fair, thigh high to chest high, said the surf report. I didn't get out until pretty late, again on the sponge at the wall. I've been avoiding the hard boards for a while because my xiphoid process is sore.

A mix of short and longer period spells gave us a couple of decent sets; much less chop than on Monday. I caught a couple of very fun waves, big drop and nice walls to carve. On a couple of them I was able to pull a big bottom turn and smack off the lip.

I stayed out until the sun was touching the horizon and was the last guy out there. A nice end to the day.

After I walked home I soaked in the jacuzzi for ten mins before a cooling dip in the pool.

Early to bed and now I can blog at 1:30 am. ;)

Happy April 23rd birthdays to Wm Shakespeare, and Veronica and Colin O'Shea.

Aloha!



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