I forgot how much work it can be to surf. I've had it pretty easy the past few weeks, with smallish swells and light winds. Yesterday was fun, I caught a couple of shoulder-high waves, with nice drops and big carving turns, but not too sustained, before a cross-swell would mess it up, or the wind chop, or the reflection from the waves bouncing back. Whatevahs, the paddle out after each wave was a workout; multiple duck-dives to get through whitewater and breaking waves.
When you get a super-choppy, super crossed-up, hard paddling day, the surf reporters used to call it Victory-at-Sea conditions. So named, for the old WW2 newsreels of the same title that would show little naval ships bouncing around like corks in the North Atlantic prior to recapping the latest efforts of the US Navy.
Good thing I ate all of this stuff to sustain my energy.
Breakfast!
Lunch!
That is my own home-made brown rice, with a hunk of 3-cheese and garlic bread from Great Harvest, and a cup of pipikaula (Hawaiian-style dried beef) from Foodland.
So, after that, got home, showered, skype'd Kris and then it was off to catch Sean Na'auao! Outrigger Reef has the best music line-up, with Hawaiian Legends playing every night. I missed the first set, but the second set kicked of with about eight straight Hawaiian songs accompanying hula dancers. If you haven't spent much time over here, you might think this is a formal sort of thing, but those people aren't getting paid. They are doing it for the love.
Very special to see local people get up and do a dance to great music from a local legend. Fish and Poi! I'm a big boy!
Aloha!
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